Vava’u Days

Vava’u Days (written 11 November at Limu Island, Ha’api Group, Tonga)

We cruised the Vava’u group far longer than we ever imagined. The calm protected waters for flat sailing, sweet kiteboarding spots, beautiful snorkeling, and protected anchorages lulled us into a vacation-like mode. For even as the weather changed, the seas thrashed, and the winds howled, only a short sail from any anchorage in the group was the South Pacific’s only natural hurricane harbor. We took refuge a few times in Neiafu’s protected harbor, using these opportunities to re-provision, get our laundry cleaned, and catch up with cruisers who we had gotten to know in one anchorage or another.

Within Vava’u, our longest “passages” were from the West side of the archipelago to the East, a half day sail away, or a day of tacking if the wind was on the nose. The first times we journeyed from one side to the other, the numerous marked reefs and occasional unmarked ones added stress and drama to the sail. (Stories from veteran sailors – the kind who round Cape Horn – who had run aground navigating a channel kept us on the lookout and peering at the electronic chart.) We often sailed to an anchorage when others stayed tucked into port, for when the trade winds were reinforced by a high pressure system to our south, kiteboarding called. Several times we reefed down to sail in 25 knots of wind and made our way eastwards to the kiteboarding site of Kenutu Island, short tacking to avoid the reefs and line up our entrance through narrow channels to the anchorage. A nearby sandbar which appeared each low tide was the perfect launching spot for Anson, Devon and Mark to develop their kiteboarding skills. This remote anchorage, challenging to access and enter, is a favorite of cruisers looking for rugged beauty and fewer crowds, as well as kiteboarders looking for their daily adrenaline rush. We shared evenings around beach fires, and on the spit the kiters gathered to share tips and resources with our crew. We got to know a number of folks, including Michelle and Steve, an inveterate kiter, aboard the catamaran Citrus Tart (the one that would have claimed line honors in the race we won, had they not been hosting the sponsors).

We got to know very few Tongan people during this time. Partly this was a factor of the cruising grounds: Kenutu is uninhabited, as were most of the islands off of which we anchored to snorkel and explore. But also daily interactions were limited by a reticence that was explained by the Samoan-American manager of one waterfront cafe as “shyness.” As we walked along streets, our greetings of an English “hello” or a Tongan “Malo e lei lei” were rarely acknowledged or reciprocated. Perhaps it was shyness, or perhaps fatigue, sprinkled with resentment, as their home and daily life was transmuted into “vacation paradise” for the small, but economically significant, tourist industry. In stark contrast, families who depended upon cruisers for part of their livelihood were outgoing and welcoming, seeking anchored boats out by kayak and inviting all aboard to a Tongan feast.

We had heard that such feasts were not to be missed, so we joined about 20 other cruisers at David’s home on Vakaeitu Island for an evening of suckling pig roasted on a home-made spit over an open fire (young men of the family spelled each other as they rotated the stick for hours on end). David’s wife had worked in a hotel in Tonga Tapu for many years, so the numerous side dishes she prepared were straight off a hotel menu crafted for the palangi (foreigner) palate. We were hoping for local dishes, harvested from their farm, such as breadfruit and coconut wrapped in taro leaves and slow-cooked in an ‘umu or underground “oven,” but were presented with dishes like potato salad and Szechuan chicken. The only taro wrapped package was filled with slow baked corn beef hash, a staple of these islands, with large tins available at every small store.

We had visited David’s family several days before the feast, when asking permission to traverse their land to hike across the island. There we saw his wife, assisted by several children on break from school, transform branches cut from their trees into the finely crafted waistbands worn by government officials and others required to, or choosing to, dress in Tongan style. Children used sharp knives to cut the bark from the branch and then carry the naked wood to the lagoon to soak for several weeks. Once softened, the wood separated into strands, which could be twisted into fine cord, then braided into a waist band, with decorative loops. (We have fond memories from a decade ago of watching a similar process in Kangra, India, as our friend Joginder’s father sat on the verandah of their home twisting fiber from water soaked wood and ultimately producing strong rope to be used around their farm.) The family sold these decorative belts in the market to those required to wear them, but without the time and/or knowledge or inclination to make their own. Through the feasts, fishing and crafts, the family earned enough income to pay for school fees and other essentials, their farmlands and the sea providing the core of their subsistence needs.

Shortly before leaving the Vava’u group we anchored off of Naupaupu Island and gave a bit of outboard oil to Sareta, who was preparing his boat for the two-hour journey to the high school in Neiafu (most villages have primary schools, but children reside with family members in town during their secondary school years). Sareta’s wife deftly braided pandanus fronds around the wooden supports for the wooden biminy top, which provided shade for this otherwise open launch. Once each post was clad in greenery, she added red and yellow flowers to complete the beautification.

Sareta invited us to tour his farm (he’s a local councilman and a large landowner), and so the next day we journeyed ashore. He and his 13 year old son mounted horses, a pony following behind, while we chose to walk to their extensive plantations. We asked endless questions about the swidden agriculture/slash and burn farming methods through which the family transformed impenetrable jungle into fertile, intercropped fields of banana, plantain, papaya, yam, cassava, sweet potato, several varieties of taro, pineapple, sugarcane, mulberry (for tapa cloth), and several varieties of kava (for the production of the kava drink, central to both ceremony and celebration). Mango trees lined the forest side of the path, with small fruit beginning to ripen; coconut trees were dotted along the road. We brought pancakes for them to enjoy and returned with our arms laden with bananas, papaya, coconuts, yams and plantains. We kept protesting that they were too generous, and reduced the quantity down to a mound we could transport by dinghy, but later we redistributed the bounty among cruising friends, for we never could have consumed it all before it rotted in the hot, humid weather.

We encountered such generosity each trip to the open-air vegetable market in Neiafu as well. There women sit at long tables covered with piles of tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers, cabbages, beans, onions, potatoes, eggplant, papayas, melons, banana, taro, sweet potatoes and fresh herbs. Over the weeks of cruising Vava’u, we returned to the stall of one woman, and soon she piled on extra fruit and veggies after we completed our large purchases. Again we graciously protested to keep the quantity down – sometimes it seemed we would have equal portions of bought and gifted produce. Upon our departure we learned that she had journeyed from New Zealand to care for her father, who was so neglected in the local hospital that his bed sores were deep and deadly. After nursing him through the most critical time, she farmed a plot of melons and marketed vegetables from her brother’s land, assisted by her daughters during school holidays. Now that her father was home and mostly well, she was preparing to return to New Zealand, to the relief of her daughters, for whom New Zealand felt more like home.

Our time to journey onward had come as well. Devon’s fractured wrist had stabilized enough to sail in open ocean, and a beautiful weather window appeared: one meter seas and 15 knots of wind off the beam. The northernmost of the Ha’apai group of islands of Tonga were a quick 70 nautical mile sail south, an overnight passage since these reef-strewn waters are best approached with the sun high in the sky. We departed Vava’u after cruising friends joined us aboard Anthea for a last dive of Mariner’s Cave. That night we left the protected waters of Vava’u and ghosted out into the ocean. Once clear of the lee from the larger islands, the wind filled in for a perfect sail. Reefed down in case of squalls, we sailed along at 7.5 knots, feeling Anthea come alive as the wind freshened and veered, putting us on a close reach for the final miles. The dawn light revealed the low-lying islands of Ha’apai nestled among reefs and sandy shores. We tucked behind the small island of Nukanamo to seek shelter from the forecast 25-30 knot winds, and thus began our Ha’pai days – days filled with strong winds, kiteboarding mania, and, when the sun shone and the winds calmed, snorkeling in these less frequented waters.

Kim

Mariner’s Cave the Hard Way

Mariner’s Cave the Hard Way
1 November 2017

Mark and Anson stepped into the dinghy while we slowly forereached Anthea parallel to the sheer rocky coast. We had set out this morning (five weeks ago) to find Mariner’s Cave. Our guidebooks described it as a must-see, beautiful underwater cave that opens up into an air-filled cavern. The water was too deep to anchor in, at 200 feet plus, so we had to use the dinghy to locate the cave’s entrance. While Mark and Anson were finding Mariner’s cave, Kim and I made sandwiches and sailed the boat.

When Mark and Anson returned for lunch, to our delighted surprise, they pointed out Charmaine, Stuart and Aaron, a young doctor friend who was crewing with them to New Zealand, putting along in their small wooden dinghy, powered by a tiny electric engine. We hurriedly finished lunch and rushed to the entrance of Mariner’s Cave, where they had just tied their dinghy to dead coral. Quickly putting on mask, fins and snorkel we dove into the water, the relative coldness (75 degrees f) giving us a shock. We could see two entrances: a large tunnel barely three feet under the water, and a deeper one, 35 feet below. Both were wide enough for two people to swim through together. I followed Charmaine, who had already swum through a couple of times. I swam through the 12 foot long passage with my face up, seeing the jagged rock forming the oval portal. Surfacing up inside the cave, the first thing I noticed, after taking a deep breath, were the pressure surges from the waves coming in. The popping in my ears was similar to when landing in an airplane. The next thought that flashed through my mind was “gorgeous:” the cave was a mist-filled dome made up of jagged stalactites and sharp limestone walls. Blue light filtered through the under-water entrances, illuminating beams of water in an otherwise dark cave. Thankfully I had our underwater flashlight, which showed me the waves hitting the far wall, each one creating a boom that echoed around the cave. Questions flashed through my mind. How did we escape from getting carbon dioxide poisoning? With the cave fully sealed, and not enough light for photosynthesis, how was there was enough oxygen for hundreds of tourists to come every year? And what caused all the mist? The swells didn’t seem strong enough, and I could see no other source that might cause the damp blanket. And what created the cave and its entrances? Are there more undiscovered caves as beautiful as this, with entrances just too deep to see?

I turned back towards the entrance and saw Anson diving down through the deep passage, over the heads of two oblivious scuba divers. I was interested in seeing the passage, so I prepared myself for a dive. I descended down, with Anson and Aaron spotting me from above. After coming down to the depth of the entrance, I turned around (not feeling confident enough to swim through the passage). I started to swim up, my lungs beginning to burn. I swam faster and unknowingly curved towards the wall of the cave. Fifteen feet below the surface I hit an outcropping with a resounding “thunk.” My mask got ripped off and I could feel broken pieces of limestone digging themselves into my scalp. I quickly continued swimming up, seeing a white blob swimming towards me. I surfaced, feeling an intense burning on top of my head. I could see my blood looking iridescent green in the eerie light. Anson (the white blob I had seen) surfaced a few seconds later, having swum towards me, in case the impact knocked me out. After making sure I could do it, I followed Anson and dove through the upper tunnel out into the open water. I made my way to the dinghy. Seeing that I had injured myself, Aaron, Stuart, Charmaine, and Kim all dove through the tunnel out of the cave. I clambered onto the dinghy and immediately felt nauseous and almost threw up. Blood was running down my forehead. Luckily Stuart and Aaron are both doctors and Charmaine is also a medical practitioner.

Back on board Anthea, Anson and Aaron picked pieces of limestone out of my scalp and irrigated my cuts with pressurized water. So far I hadn’t had any symptoms of a concussion. A cut on my forehead was steri-stripped together, while my scalp wounds didn’t require closure.
After stabilizing my injuries, we sailed Anthea to A’a Island, where we dropped off Stuart, Charmaine, Aaron, Kim and Anson for some gorgeous snorkeling. Mark and I anchored Anthea next to Vlakvark (Stuart and Charmaine’s boat), barely half a mile away. Mark called Grandma and found out that she had passed away just hours earlier. Kim and Anson came back an hour later, and Mark told them the sorrowful news.

Luckily, my head injury was not a concussion. It was just a bad knock, which meant I had constant headaches and no screen time for the next four days. It’s been healed up for over a month now, and all that I have to show for it is a scar on my forehead.

Unfortunately, this wasn’t my last injury: I fractured my wrist coming down the forward hatch three weeks ago. The cast won’t come off until New Zealand, which means missing the best kiteboarding since La Ventana. I have been able to get into the water through triple bagging my arm and putting it up on a raft. This enables me to snorkel and swim around Anthea in calm conditions. I seem to be unfortunate with injuries, but thankfully none of them have been too serious. On the flip side, I’ve gotten out of a lot of work, including galley duty.

Devon

For the Love of Coral

The islands within the Vava’u group of Tonga are largely protected from the ocean swell, as the archipelago is framed on the north by the large island of Vava’u, with barrier islands and reefs forming an oblong group, punctuated by tiny outer islands and reefs along the southern edge. A maze of islands and reefs lies within, offering flat water sailing, numerous anchorages, dive and snorkel spots, sea caves, and a few kiteboarding spots as well. This is prime cruising grounds, with the small town of Nieafu easily accessed for re-provisioning when needed. The Vava’u group is famous for its clear waters, rich with soft and hard corals, anemones, sponges, sea fans, echinoderms (sea stars, cucumbers, urchins) and brilliantly colored tropical fish, but few areas live up to this reputation these days. The remaining live reefs are only partially healthy, yet, thankfully, still rife with color and filled with species diversity.

Coral Gardens is by far the most vibrant coral reef in the archipelago, one that is challenging to access, as a southwesterly ocean swell rolls between the outer islands and bathes the reef with cool ocean waters before breaking upon its shallows. The anchorage is on the back side of the reef, in calm protected waters; the difficulty is getting through the surf to the gardens beyond. Mark and I attempted entry during mid-tide on the southern edge, but we couldn’t find a break in the surf long enough to struggle through. Venturing to the north edge of the reef, we waited for the tide to rise a bit more. With water levels rising we swam towards the break, tummies barely skimming coral gravel, fighting the current rushing past us, and with great difficulty we reached the edge of the break. After watching the pattern of the waves we decided to take our chances and punch through a smaller set. Each wave pushed us backwards, then we sprinted forward in the lulls, repeating this process over and over until finally emerging on the other side. I was physically and emotionally exhausted, having used all my strength to sprint against the current, all the while terrified that a larger wave would pound me into coral. Pushed way beyond my comfort zone, I swam into deeper water than needed to ensure I didn’t get swept into the breaking swell. Mark, being a surfer dude, swam in the shallower waters on the edge of the break, where the vibrant coral was only several feet below; he called repeatedly to come enjoy the beauty. It took me about ten minutes to re-group, find another store of courage, and head to the shallows. There the world of coral opened beneath me, with the symbiotic algae painting the coral polyps in greens, blues, oranges, reds, pinks and purples. We marveled in the beauty, soaking up the colors and shapes, and after a long snorkel session, body surfed on a set of gentle waves over the reef and into the protected waters where the dinghy awaited us.

The next day the entire family ventured out. This time we walked on the coral gravel and sand near the center of the reef, made for a channel, watched the waves and took the plunge. It was a little less terrifying, but still challenging to call the sets correctly and make it through. I recovered in only a few minutes, and then ventured to the shallows to see the reef in a new light, informed by our guide to coral reefs. The iterative process of observation the day before, followed by viewing photographs, and then returning to the reef enabled me to see more detail- not only the broad categorizations of coral types, but the minute differences in what once looked the same to me. Where I first saw hard, white, branching coral, I now looked for the shape and structure of the branches – is there one primary branch with subsidiary stems emerging, or is each branch covered with symmetrical stems, or is asymmetry the defining characteristic? I looked for the patterns formed in the brain shaped corals, marveling at those which are maze-like and admiring the labyrinth-like symmetry of others. I sought out the variety in the mushroom shaped corals, searching for the round and oblong versions, looking for those that appeared upside down, and locating small varieties, with smooth round tops like the white mushrooms of the vegetable market. I marveled at the black fans with gold fringes, Christmas tree worms in brilliant colors emerging from rounded coral heads, plate coral with layers upon layers of growth, nobby and lumpy corals branching like adolescent elk antlers, and orange sponges standing tall, evocative in both color and texture of 1970s corduroy pants. The diversity of species in Tonga exceeds anything we’ve seen so far, and at this site the ratio of live, thriving coral, to bleached is 80 to 20, rather than the more common 20 to 80 in numerous other spots in Vava’u and French Polynesia.

The following day I was eager to visit the Coral Gardens again. Devon joined Mark and me, and we set out to recreate the successful entry of the day before. We walked across the coral gravel and found the path through the center of the reef. Watching the waves, we picked our window to sprint through the surf and beyond the break. Mark and Devon and I were swimming hard, but I lagged behind when a stronger wave ripped my mask from my face. In the 30 seconds it took me to reposition my mask, Mark and Devon punched through to safety while I received the first bash from a bigger wave. It knocked me down to the coral and tugged at my mask again. Gasping and grasping, I came up for air only to get tossed by another wave, much bigger and stronger. This one rolled me around and pinned me against dead coral, digging into my knees, back and then ripping into my arm as it tossed me once again. The next wave broke the strap of my fin and tore the snorkel from my mask. Mark valiantly returned to try to assist me in getting out past the break, only feet away, but by this time I knew I needed to retreat. I encouraged him to return to Devon while I slowly swam back to the dinghy, riding the boost from each wave, and hauling myself up to safety.

I took off Anson’s sun shirt (mine was lost overboard weeks before) and saw only shreds of fabric where the back had once been. Thanks to that sacrificial covering, my wounds were not deep, and all healed quickly once washed with fresh water and hydrogen peroxide.

Since that experience, we’ve snorkeled small passes beyond the favorite kiteboarding spot, experiencing the wealth of sea life that reminds us of Fakarava pass in the miniature. Around A’a island we have our favorite spots, including small sea caves dotted with coral and sea fans, a spot where a turtle and a Napolean Wrasse seem to linger, and a bleached out area with long white sea horses camouflaged in a desolate expanse of coral death.

The reasons for coral death are many. Cyclones certainly wreak havoc, destroying fragile coral polyps which take years to regrow. But human impacts threaten the viability of the reefs for generations to come. For decades the reefs have suffered from locally-based market oriented strategies of ‘development’: overharvesting of species which clean the reefs, notably to harvest shells for the tourist market and to supply Chinese markets with the medicinal sea cucumber; overfishing and upsetting the balance of species; construction of roads and large buildings which unleash torrents of silt into the ocean; damage from anchors; and toxicity leaching into the sea from garbage dumps, chemically treated sewage, and fertilizers and pesticides from new modes of agricultural production. These local actions have mostly benefitted elites – local elites, ex-pats who put down roots, as well as the tourists who are arguably among the elite of the world, ourselves included. (Given Tonga’s land laws, foreigners cannot buy land, thus there are no multinational tourist corporations building obscene tourist complexes in Vava’u; instead small resorts, many owned and run by foreigners, dot the archipelago.) But families immersed in subsistence life ways also engage in these market oriented strategies of “development” to earn income for school fees, clothing and other market-based needs produced through changing life ways and expectations. Certainly these locally based impacts have caused harm, but the most significant threat, namely climate change and the resulting sea temperature rise and increasing acidity, stems from actions centered thousands of miles away. The petroleum economy that fuels the dream life of widgets and gadgets, high speed transport by car and air, the spiraling development of needs and the complex networks to ensure the availability of almost any product anytime and anywhere, is having its impact here and now in Oceania. Simply put, the coral is dying, and it is unclear whether coral can evolve quickly enough, or coral nurseries can propagate and supply species hardy enough, so that coral will survive even a decade or two from now. Most species of coral cannot live in water warmer than 30 degrees Celsius, and even a week or two of these temperatures causes coral to fluoresce and then bleach, leaving behind skeletons that quickly become covered in brown algea. Too often on this voyage we have seen the bleached remains of once vibrant coral gardens, their skeletons still providing habitat for beautiful tropical fish and hiding spots for groupers and moray eels, but the vibrancy leeched from a stunning ecosystem.

We’ve also met people who are working to find solutions: Fiafia Rex from Oma Tafua in Niue is working to promote coral nurseries of varieties more resilient in the face of warmer and more acidic ocean waters. The Vava’u Environmental Protection Association (VEPA) is similarly working to promote coral health and to maintain local fisheries. Their projects with community-based management of fisheries resources, and their mapping of deep sea mounts with the aim of protecting them from underwater mining operations, is based on the understanding of the intensive interdependence of the deep sea and near shore fisheries, the coral ecosystem, and sustainable communities. Their work is inspiring, but can only be successful if paired with transformations on regional and global levels.

For the love of coral, we need a paradigm shift, from top down and bottom up, from the local to the global. Kim
Vava’u Group, Tonga

Anthea Places First!

Friday, October 13, Kenutu Island, Vava’u Group, Tonga
Last Thursday, October 5th, (9 nine days ago) Anthea placed first in the Whangarei Vava’u Challenge Cup Fun Race! The race took place on the fourth day of the five day Vava’u Blue Water Festival, whose key sponsors were the Whangarei Marine Group and Bay of Islands Marina in New Zealand, The Boatyard (Neiafu, Vava’u), Bank of the South Pacific, and many local businesses here in Neiafu. The purpose of the festival was to showcase Vava’u as a sailing locale, to learn about maritime services in New Zealand, and to support the further development of the Vava’u Blue Water Sailing School. To see pictures from the Challenge Cup Fun Race, check out the Vava’u Blue Water Festival facebook page (Anthea has the blue, red and white spinnaker). Anthea’s crew had a great day on race day, and thoroughly enjoyed the well planned and organized Festival.
Race day began with Anson rolling out of his birth at 6am, bright eyed and bushy tailed and full of energy (this is not a daily occurrence). He immediately retrieved lines from the port locker and began setting up the foredeck for the spinnaker set. He worked with an intensity that was a bit intimidating (especially for a fun race); Kim and I wondered if we might be locked below decks during the race while Anson brought aboard a bunch of sailing mates to race Anthea as she was “built to be raced.” Fortunately, that was not the case. However, we were happy to welcome aboard Nigel Clark, professional skipper of a large motorsailor (35 ton), who approached me during the skipper’s meeting about joining us as crew.
The start of the race was a bit unorthodox. Basically there was no starting line, and instead, after the skipper’s meeting was adjourned, all skippers high tailed it to their boats in their dinghies (though some swam), clambered aboard, and began the race. All boats were allowed to motor towards the green buoy at the harbor entrance. This approach avoided the chaos of having a starting line and seemed to work quite well.
We had a great race. It was a beautiful day in Vava’u – blue skies and sunshine, a fresh breeze (around 12-15 knots) and the protected, flat water that makes this archipelago such a marvelous place to sail. Anthea performed beautifully. We tend to sail Anthea well, and we know how to work together to bring out her best. Having Nigel on board was wonderful. He’s an experienced racer (including never losing a race to Dean Barker, helmsman of the New Zealand America’s Cup contender two cups ago). Throughout the race, Nigel offered sail trim and strategy suggestions that appreciably enhanced our performance. The onboard dynamics were excellent, and we worked together like a well-oiled machine. We rotated positions during the race and decisions were made in a collaborative manner. It’s hard to imagine a more perfect day.
The race course was about 23 nautical miles (as the crow flies), basically consisting of a downwind leg away from Neiafu to Tokokafonua Island, then a reach, followed by a long upwind leg back to Neiafu. Anson had rigged all the spinnaker lines perfectly. Soon after we cut our engine, up went the spinnaker sock and then the spinnaker itself was set and the jib furled. (We used our heavier asymmetrical chute as the wind was predicted to exceed the limit of our lighter symmetrical, and we thought we’d need to carry it closer to the wind then our symmetrical can handle.) Anthea responded to the increased sail area by surging ahead; Nigel was on the sheet, frequently calling for sheet trim – Devon and Anson took turns on the spinnaker sheet winch, grinding like maniacs whenever Nigel called “trim.” Anthea began to pull ahead of the competition (about 12 other cruising sailboats and catamarans), but we were still part of the pack. I was at the helm, with Kim in “the pit” on mainsail trim. Anthea had a bone in her teeth. We discussed strategy: how close to come to a windward island without getting stuck in the lee with no wind, how to play the current, and when to adjust the spinnaker pole. We were dead downwind for a good section of this leg; Anson made adjustments to the inboard end of the pole to bring it level with the clue and Kim and Devon adjusted the pole forward or back depending on our angle to the wind. The combination of Anthea’s downwind performance capability and our collective sailing skills enabled us to pull ahead of the pack. We dropped the chute just in time, prior to a blast of wind coming between two islands; Nigel helped Anson get the sock over the chute, aided by a new dousing block Anson had secured to the toe rail to enable him to haul down the sock without him getting pulled off the deck. We hardened up to a close reach and approached the leeward mark.
As we rounded Tokokafonua Island, the catamaran Citrus Tart passed us; they are a performance cat with substantial daggerboards and my, can they fly on a reach and point to windward! Thus began the upwind leg of the race. We shifted our race strategy, with as many crew as possible sitting on the windward rail, one in the pit and one at the helm. The challenge was to call the gusts before they arrived (header or lift) and for the helmsperson to respond appropriately (follow the lift or slide through or fall off for the header) and to claw our way to windward as fast and efficiently as possible. When Nigel took a turn at the helm, he noticed that our mainsail head was twisting off too much and that we needed to haul up the halyard a few inches; he was right and Anthea pointed just a bit better with the adjustment. Those of us not at the helm frequently looked back to check out the competition, especially worrisome were those cruising boats with more waterline length than us – their maximum upwind speed should be faster than ours. The one boat ahead of us was Citrus Tart, but that was ok, as we knew there were monohull and multihull divisions in this race. Amazingly, our lead over the rest of the fleet continued to increase. We didn’t get giddy though, as we know that “it’s not over till it’s over” and that anything can happen in a race. We continued pointing as high as possible without losing boat speed, tacking when necessary to avoid wind holes and to maximize the favorable current. The upwind leg is where Anthea shines, for she has an outstanding ability to point, reducing the number of tacks to the windward mark. For some reason, Citrus Tart did not complete a tack and appeared in irons, drifting into some shallow water – what was going on with them? After several minutes of drifting, they got going again, but appeared to have started their engine; as we closed in on them, we called out if they were ok and were told they were fine but had had winch troubles and were no longer racing (as it turned out, they had agreed to stop racing as they had won the multihull division twice before and had aboard key festival organizers from Bay of Islands and Whangarei – so winning it a third time would be in poor taste).
Anthea forged ahead. We tacked up the narrow channel leading into Neiafu Bay and, once through it, bore off the wind towards the mooring field where we started. The finish line involved someone leaving the boat, getting to shore, running to the Aquarium Café and signing the white erase board. We chose to sail through the mooring field, as close to land as possible, and when abreast of the café, Anson jumped overboard and swam with his powerful dive fins to the dock. While he raced for the finish we bore off the wind, dropped sails and picked up our mooring, while Devon hopped in the dinghy to fetch Anson. Twenty minutes later other competitors began to appear around the point, tacking their way into Neiafu Bay! We had handily won the race (with a margin of 29 minutes between us and the second place finisher, as it turned out).
What a great day it was! Generously, Nigel had brought a delicious lunch along for all of us (spaghetti with meat sauce and homemade bread). Over the meal we swapped sailing stories and further enjoyed his good company. That evening, Anthea’s win was recognized at the after race party, as well as at the closing party the next day. The winning prize is a free haul out and five days on the stands at Opua, Bay of Islands, for which we are very grateful. Plus “Anthea” will be engraved on the brass plate on the beautiful wooden trophy plaque that commemorates this annual festival.
This is the first blog post since I wrote of my mother’s death, September 23rd. It’s fitting for this first post to recount a glorious sailing day and a rousing win. Perhaps this is one way to honor her memory, for it resonates with my mother’s zest for life, her adventurous spirit, and her love of sailing and the ocean. After all, it was her, my father and one other crew member who braved strong winds and boisterous seas while other crew were seasick below, and successfully raced their Anthea around Santa Barbara Island one stormy night, back in the pre-GPS days when coastal navigation was by dead reckoning and Radio Direction Finder (RDF) fixes. As I noted in a prior blog, that night some of the seams in their wooden vessel opened up and they started taking on water – nevertheless, they pushed on, rounded the island in the dark of night, and completed the race, while many others turned back. Their accomplishment has been enshrined in family history, as perhaps our racing day here in Vava’u, will also. This one’s for you, Mummy. -Mark

Memories of Carroll

Last night (Friday pm 29 September), Pacific Standard Time), Anson returned to Anthea having downloaded the heartfelt comments that our friends and loved ones had posted regarding Carroll’s passing.  I read them aloud.  Thank you for your love and support, which we feel strongly, as well as for honoring who she was.  Some comments, including those of Kim’s mother (who holds quite a bit of sway around here) asked us to share memories of our mother and grandmother.  Thank you for the request and invitation, which seems especially appropriate, as the memorial service for Carroll won’t be held until after we return.   I’ll write a bit about her here, in a humble effort to attempt to convey what a remarkable woman she was and perhaps a bit about her life (it turned out longer than anticipated, so please skim, scroll or skip as time/interest dictate).  Also, perhaps this space can provide a forum for any of us to share memories of her.  I invite you to do so.  Here’s my effort:

Marguerite Carroll Baker was born on July 25, 1925 in South Church, Essex, England.  Soon after her birth, and before her other two siblings came into this world, my grandfather moved the family to Thorte Bay, Essex, on the Thames estuary.  This is where she spent her childhood, and went to school, until she and her siblings were sent to boarding school in Malvern Hills when she was about 11 years old.  My mother was a masterful storyteller and regaled us over the years with humorous stories from the various periods of her remarkable life.  So for example, we heard of my grandmother’s firm belief in the efficacy of boiled fish to cure a wide variety of childhood ailments; unbeknownst to her though (so the story goes), was the fact that the boiled fish and its medicinal properties generally ended up on the roof of the back garden shed, after being tossed out the window by the intended beneficiary.  And we heard of my mother’s escape from the nearby boarding school.  It was a long walk home, and she was somewhat dismayed to discover, upon arriving at home, that her parents had left town for several days.  Fortunately, the person charged with looking after the house was just leaving as Carroll arrived, and so was able to take her to her grandmother’s home until they returned.

This incident may have been behind the decision to send the children to another boarding school, farther away in the Malvern Hills.  There she finished her formal schooling, by which time World War II had broken out.  Her lifelong friendship with Kathleen Shaw dates from this period, and perhaps this friendship helped her face the challenges of this form of schooling.   Together they sneak read their favorite novels in the back of the classroom, concealing them behind a stack of books at the edge of the desk.  They staged raids on the kitchen pantry, only to find the good items generally under lock and key.  And they developed special names for some of their teachers, such as “Wood Wood,” for Miss Woodward, who had a peg leg and a wooden walking stick.  Once the war broke out, the school was shifted to an old rambling manor house on an estate deemed to be in a safer location.  She had many stories of life in this large, many-halled manor home, with its numerous fireplaces, no electricity, and portraits of family ancestors on the walls.

My mother experienced the second world war in a variety of ways.  Her family was relocated during the war from Essex to outside Bristol, as the authorities thought that the Thames Estuary was vulnerable to attack from German war planes on their way to London.  Indeed, my mother recounts seeing German planes flying low up the Thames.  Unfortunately, Bristol was not much safer as it too was a bombing target.  My mother recalled seeking shelter with her brother and sister under the bed during bombing raids, while my grandmother stood at the kitchen window watching the dogfights and the anti-aircraft fire coming from a nearby field.  In response to admonishments from her children to join them, she replied that she was fine as she had a scarf around her neck to protect her from shrapnel.  Carroll remembered distinguishing between RAF and German planes simply by their distinctive engine sounds. There are many stories from this period, of life under rationing and what it was like for the family to be separated (my grandfather remained in Essex).

Once she was old enough, my mother joined the Women’s Royal Naval Service (WRNS).  During her years in the WRNS (pronounced “wrens”) she worked deep underground somewhere in southeast England.  She was part of a team of women whose jobs were to decode messages from ships in the North Sea, and to code outgoing messages.  She described how the codebooks were lead bound to minimize the likelihood of falling into Axis possession; they would either sink rapidly with the ship, or, in the event of a capture, be thrown overboard.  She also described the underground command center where she would sometimes deliver messages; the center included a large physical map of the North Sea on which were placed models of the ships, which officers would position with long sticks during their planning and strategy sessions.  I think my mother found her time in the WRNS challenging and rewarding, a useful way to contribute to the war effort.  There were good times as well, like going up to London for an evening out with sailors whose ship was in.

After the war came the question, common to many who had been part of the effort, of what to do next.  She tried a stint working for a prestigious rug and interior decorating establishment in London, but this did not provide enough meaning.  While holidaying on a farm in the south of England (which I think meant helping to bring the harvest in while staying on the farm) she was astonished to hear the passion with which a fellow companion described being a nurse.  Surprised that someone could express that much enthusiasm for their job, she decided to join St. George’s Hospital nursing school on the outskirts of London.  There she trained and practiced nursing for four years, and did an additional fifth year of training to become a midwife.  Nursing was, for my mother, a career that provided meaning and livelihood for many years.  Some of the stories I remember concern the horrible air quality in London at that time.  It was so bad, my mother said, that you couldn’t see to the other end of the ward inside the hospital.  Apparently nurses were held in high regard for they received perquisites such as free tickets to go to the theatre; my mother describes the pleasure of going to the theatre and sitting “up in the gods.”  St. George’s nurses and staff were the recipients of the leftovers from royal banquets that took place at nearby Buckingham Palace.  Nurses also road the busses for free.  These generous gifts partially compensated for the quite low pay nurses received.

When she finished nursing school Carroll worked for a short period in private practice, and then worked for a longer period of time as a midwife in the east end of London.  This was the era of the bicycle midwives, when every child after the first born (if a fine birth) was born at home in a delivery the neighborhood midwife facilitated.   My mother recounted many stories of her work as a neighborhood midwife.  The home birth system was well planned out.  Each midwife was responsible for the births in their ward.  They made all the necessary pre-birth visits to the pregnant mothers’ homes, instructed the family to save their newspapers for the day of the birth to use to protect the matress, made sure that hot water could be prepared at the necessary time (hot water, and in some cases running water, was not available in many homes).  Each midwife also always had the coins to make a phone call and knew where the nearest phone booth was in case something went awry and reinforcements or transport to the hospital became necessary.  They travelled by bicycle and one sign of how they were appreciated was the right of way they were given by buses and other traffic as they made their rounds.

One of my mother’s amazing qualities was the matter of fact attitude with which she approached situations that others might find disconcerting or upsetting, including her own approaching death.  I wonder if her work in the WRNS, and especially later as a nurse midwife were the crucibles in which this character trait was forged.

After some time working as a nurse midwife my mother found herself at a crossroads.  She had been asked to return to St George’s to be a matron overseeing the nursing staff.  She knew accepting this offer meant a lifelong commitment to St. George’s and to remaining single.  The offer forced her to consider other alternatives, and as the story goes, one cold, rainy, foggy day in London she and a dear friend were at a coffee or tea shop and there, on the cover of a magazine, they saw a captivating photo of sunny southern California with orange orchards in the foreground and the snow-capped San Bernadino Mountains in the background, blue sky and all.  That decided it.  After securing the necessary sponsorship, she travelled by steamship to New York and from there to Santa Monica.  There she joined a group of British expats, and forged or deepened friendships that would become lifelong with June Ash, Maureen Cory and Jill Fitzgerald, among others.  This would have been around 1955.   Thus began my mother’s sojourn in the United States, originally planned as a two year trip, but which lasted the rest of her life.

My mother loved those early years in southern California.  I think at times it felt dreamlike to her.  She secured a job as a nurse at UCLA medical center in the radiology department; she thoroughly enjoyed the work and her colleagues.  She also really appreciated the 40 hour work week and having weekends off and what seemed to her a generous salary – a far cry from the residential approach to life as a nurse at St. George’s with long hours, little time off, and minimal salary.  She got around in a convertible and lived in Malibu in a cottage under whose porch the waves crashed at high tide.  The warm, salubrious weather was also wonderful.  My mother was amazed at the wide open space, the national parks and the outdoor hiking and camping opportunities in the United States – something that did not exist in the England of her day.  This appreciation of the great outdoors stayed with my mother all her life.  She was the inspiration and force behind the many camping and hiking trips we did as a family growing up, and Yosemite became a sacred touchstone for her and the whole family.

As I mentioned, her plan was to return to England after two years.  However, even though she had purchased a return plane ticket, this plan was thwarted when her friend, Ten-Broeck Baker, asked if she would meet him at his newly purchased house in Chatsworth to give some interior decorating advice.  This was only a pretext to meet, for when she arrived he proposed to her and presented her with an engagement ring.  They were married at All Saints by the Sea Episcopal Church in Montecito, California in 1959 or 1960.  Thus began many years of adventures and life together, which continued until my father’s death in 1998.

My father was a reliability engineer working in the booming southern California post WW II aerospace industry.  My mother thought that after marrying my father she would never have to work again.  In this she was quite mistaken, and thereby hangs a good part of the excitement and adventure, perhaps more than initially anticipated, that characterized our family life.  Although an engineer, what my father really loved was buying and selling houses.  Because of this, though we found ourselves mostly living in middle class homes in California, Michigan and Connecticut; occasionally things got more interesting as when we lived in Beverly Hills in a large house with tennis courts and swimming pool and in what has been described as the nicest Monterey-style home in swanky Montecito.   Once the aerospace industry began to contract in the seventies, our family moved frequently to follow my father’s employment: two years in Ann Arbor, Michigan, followed by one year in Santa Barbara, then two years in Glastonbury, Connecticut.  In each of these locations we happily settled, made community (often through the local Episcopal Church), plugged into the local school system, and took full advantage of the region’s hiking and camping opportunities.  After the Connecticut job came to an end, my father decided it was time to realize his long term dream to own and develop a ranch or farm.  He purchased 187 acres of steep, chaparral-covered land in southern California (Ventura), and we returned home to California.   Thus began the “ranch years,” which included living on the property in a single wide mobile home with no electricity and minimal plumbing, while clearing land for avocado trees, installing irrigation and establishing a successful orchard.  Throughout these diverse experiences my mother sought to always see the good, helped us avail ourselves of positive opportunities and supported my sister and myself in as many ways as possible.  She herself survived breast cancer and invasive surgery when we were in Connecticut and was given less than a 50% chance of living five years.  Every five years after the surgery, up until the surgeon passed away, my mother wrote him a card thanking him for yet another five years of cancer-free life.  Expressing gratitude in this manner exemplifies my mother’s generous spirit, her thoughtfulness and her appreciation for others.

Although the avocado orchard we planted way back when is still thriving and producing a handsome profit, for us and for too many reasons to recount here, the ranch years came to a crash in the mid 1980s.  My father and mother were forced to declare bankruptcy.  For the next several years, until her retirement, my mother worked as a nurse and was the sole breadwinner.  During this time my parents lived in a rented cottage amidst an orange orchard in Ojai Valley.  After her retirement, they moved to the rural town of Covelo, in Round Valley, Mendocino County.  Thus began another, diverse life chapter, enriched by deep friendships (especially with her friend Shirley Kyle), the Episcopal Church in Willits (where lie some of my father’s ashes), and meaningful engagement with the unique social and environmental qualities of Round Valley.  My parents, and later my mother, always welcomed me and my family and friends, and my sister Zara and her friends, to their home on East Lane.  We will always cherish the memories of good times shared in Covelo – the summer barbecues in the back yard under the pear trees with the warm breeze blowing across the valley, summer swimming in the Eel River water holes, hiking in Mendocino National Forest, winter snow play and cross country skiing up Mendocino Pass, to name a few.  The Covelo chapter of my parents also included the long decline of my father due to Alzheimer’s disease.  My mother supported him in all respects, right up to the last three weeks of his life.  Her selfless, unwavering support enabled him to remain at home, in dignity, as long as humanly possible.  Her care for him demonstrates her remarkable selflessness and resilience, even though, as she used to say, with a twinkle in her eye, that every white hair on her head had my father’s name on it.

Finally, around 2010, we were able to convince my mother to move to Arcata.  This last chapter of her life lasted seven years.  We were overjoyed to have her so close to us, just five minutes away.  This period was punctuated, but not dominated by, health challenges, because my mother was so stalwart, able to absorb adversity with dignity, grace and resilience.  One of the primary themes of this period is quality time with family, especially with her two grandsons, who were the apples of her eye and in whom she took unending delight and happiness.  As with her prior homes, she created a rich community, in part through St. Alban’s Episcopal Church, in part with her neighbors at Bayview Apartments, and through other diverse community connections.  In Arcata, she continued her lifelong appreciation for classical music and theatre by attending events at Humboldt State and in the area, and her love of learning by attending presentations and guest speaker events at Humboldt State and by enrolling in continuing education courses.  Her intellectual curiosity made it easy for us to choose what to give her at Christmas – all we had to do was renew her subscription to the New York Review of Books!  Her broadmindedness, unshakable ethical foundation, and politically progressive views had deep roots and grew like a tall tree over the years, from helping to found a chapter of Beyond War in Ojai back in the late 70s/early 80s to her more recent support for the LGBTQ movement.  By the time her final decline commenced, a little over a year ago, she had nurtured a full, meaningful and nurturing life in Arcata, rich in friendship and love.

This piece has grown longer than initially anticipated.  This view remains partial, as are all truths, and lacks whole chapters and perspectives – I hope others will fill in some of the gaps. I have tried to strike a balance between recounting events and life experiences and trying to convey a sense of what an extraordinary person my mother was.  I think I have not done justice to her sense of humor and quick wit, nor have I described her amazing ability to take sincere interest in others’ lives and to vicariously experience, through active listening, the experiences of others.  I have also not discussed her lifelong love of the ocean and my parent’s passion for sailing, which they enjoyed for a few years on a classic, wooden 8 meter class sloop in southern California.  Also, I have only hinted at her many adages and sayings, which our family will always use as one of many ways to honor her memory.

I think I’ll close by quoting a message Kim wrote to be read to Carroll several weeks ago, and a beautiful passage our dear friend Judee wrote us following Carroll’s death.  Kim’s passage is a loving testament to my mother, and Judee’s references her last days as she transitioned out of this world.

Kim’s message: “You are an amazing and beautiful person who has touched my life deeply, and the lives of many others.  When I summon your spirit in my mind, I see your joy-filled engagement with life, your love of nature and music, your inquiring mind and commitment to justice, your ethical core that is as strong as the rock of Gibraltar, and your love of family and friends.  I see a woman who has lived a beautiful life, an intentional life, a meaningful life.  I see a woman who is dear to me and who I will miss dearly when you are no longer with us.  Your spirit will always be a part of me, for knowing and loving you has shaped who I am today.”

 

And Judee’s message:

“I send you sympathy in the wake of Carroll’s leaving this world. Carroll

was such an amazing person, she was so brave, and vibrant. And she loved

you all so much.

 

It is hard to believe that it has already been three days since I

saw her last.  I will miss her, and the inspiration she has been for me.

 

She endured so much, and sustained her focus on the good and on the

potential of joy for such a long time.

 

She was so proud of you all. And while I know she missed you intensely,

she loved that you are following your dreams, the ones whose seed may

have sprouted in part from some influence of her own determined sense of

adventure.

 

I know that Carroll wished YOU joy in all that you do, and everywhere

you go, and that your voyage itself can honor her memory.

 

May Carroll’s memory be a blessing.”

 

I send all my love to my mother and hold her dear in my heart.

 

-Mark